Montreal’s Many Charms

It’s the staircases that got me, the moment I saw them. As soon as we exited the highway and began driving down city streets to our Airbnb in the Rosemont-La Petite-Patrie neighborhood, I noticed these strange, fabulous, staircases outside all the rowhouses. One after another, block after block…

I had never seen anything like it. I had not read or seen photos about this aspect of Montreal. It was strange and wonderful and whimsical all at once. This city looks really different, I thought. This place is unique.

I fell for Montreal even before I had my first Montreal bagel, or was welcomed into a cafe with a hearty Bonjour, or saw my first massive Leonard Cohen mural.

My family drove up from Brooklyn in February so my daughter could visit McGill University—but also to really explore, experience and enjoy Montreal. This was our first trip to this city that we didn’t know much about, but had heard was well worth a visit. 

We were not disappointed. 

There are few things as satisfying as discovering a new city, sinking your teeth into it, getting lost, learning its rhythms—and falling in love. In just a few days, you can get deep enough to start to know a place—and I soon became smitten with Montreal.

Far More French than I’d Thought

Montreal is a six hour drive, but a world away from New York City. Truly. I knew Montreal and Quebec were predominantly French, but I thought the city would be more bilingual. I didn’t realize it would look and feel so French. French street signs. French signage on shops. French je ne sais quoi, everywhere you turn. The city’s about as French as you can get without being in France.

Most Montrealers we met spoke French and English. We were usually greeted in French in shops and restaurants, but once someone realized we are American, they invariably switched to English. 

On the streets and exploring the city, however, we predominantly heard French wherever we went. Sitting in cafes. At the depanneur (corner store). On the metro. Walking the dog. Indeed we felt like we were in Europe, not a North American city—which is one of the great things about Montreal. It’s so close but feels so far away.

From the architecture and outdoor stairways to the language, cuisine, poutine, bagels (bagels are a big deal in Montreal!) to the European pace of the place, Montreal enchants.

So, within hours of our arrival, two questions loomed large in my mind: Why am I so surprised by how foreign it feels here? And WHY on earth have I never been here before?

The city is close enough for anyone driving from the Northeast to decide on a whim, pack up, and go. We split our drive in half and spent the night in Saratoga Springs on the way up—a good mid-point to stop on the road from NYC. 

Late winter may sound like an odd time to drive to Montreal, but it’s a great time to visit. Unlike NYC, Montreal still has a real winter. The snow-covered city is lovely and quiet. The Airbnb we stayed in was really affordable this time of year. February is a perfect time to cozy up in cafes, and savor soupe a l’oignion gratinee. Shops and sights were not crowded, though the best restaurants still book up fast.

Petite-Patrie is a neighborhood of tree-lined streets and classic Montreal plexes, as the rowhouses are called—a few miles from downtown and the tourist areas of Old Montreal and Old Port. Our apartment was on the top floor of a triplex, so I had plenty of experience with those steep, exterior steps. I hauled our bags up and down stairs. Walked our dog several times a day… 

Mural at Jean-Talon Market.

Climbing those steps in snow, ice and cold, and then once inside, another steep interior stairway to our third floor flat—was so different from my world in Brooklyn. I loved it. It’s little things like this—experiencing the routine way people live in a place—their unique built environment—the simple act of climbing narrow, icy stairs and then balancing on the top step with a bag of groceries, trying to get my key into the lock—that makes travel exhilarating.

From our apartment on Rue de la Roche in La Petite-Patrie, we set out to explore Plateau and Outrement, Mile End and McGill… It was great to be a Montrealer for a few days.

UPDATE:

My daughter was accepted to McGill and we returned to Montreal in August for drop-off. Now I’ll get to visit this wonderful city many times in the years ahead.

While winter in Montreal was magical, we were in awe of the city’s summer beauty. Flowers were blooming everywhere—on McGill’s campus and in front yards and small plots across the neighborhoods we visited. Montreal is a delight any time of year. We cannot get enough of this place.

Montreal, city of steps.

Montreal Guide

EATS

Montreal is a foodie town—from high-end cuisine to that pile of fries, cheese curds and gravy known as poutine—and loads of cozy cafes and excellent ethnic restaurants. The city’s long-established smoked meat and bagel places are legendary, and hip new spots open all the time. Honestly, it’s worth visiting Montreal just to eat!

Smoked Meat 

“Try our delicious ‘smoked meat,’ ready to reheat at home!”

There wasn’t any question of what we would eat first on our first visit to Montreal. The city is famous for its smoked meat so we headed straight to Lester’s Deli for lunch as soon as we got into town. Founded in 1951, Lester’s is old school to the core—from the menu and decor to the memorabilia covering the walls. Montreal-style smoked meat is brisket that’s cured, smoked and steamed—similar to corned beef. Lester’s hot smoked meat sandwich was moist, lean and delicious. Served with pickles, fries and coleslaw. Carrot cake for dessert. 

There are many smoked meat destinations worth trying in Montreal. Schwartz’s Deli is the most famous. It’s a legendary place, founded in 1928, usually with lines out the door. We grabbed a sandwich to go during our August trip and ate in a nearby park. I found it as delicious as Lester’s. I’ll have to try them both again to choose a favorite.

Naturally I had to try The King of Smoked Meat (Le Roi du Smoked Meat ). Turns out the name is somewhat misleading. My sandwich was very good, but not as good as Lester’s and Schwartz’s. If you’re in the Petite-Patrie area and have a craving, though, don’t hesitate to go. Not only for the smoked meat, but also for the decor. Le Roi is a time warp of a diner, unchanged from the ‘60s it seems.

Lester’s Deli, 1057 Bernard Avenue West

Schwartz’s Deli, 3895 Saint-Laurent Blvd.

Le Roi du Smoked Meat, 6705 Rue St-Hubert

Bagels

Bagels are a big deal in Montreal. In fact, the bagel is as much a part of Montreal life as it is in New York. But the Montreal bagel is completely different from what we get here.

Fresh out of the oven—at St-Viateur Bagel.

I’m used to big, doughy-soft New York bagels, which are boiled in water before baking in a conventional oven. The Montreal bagel is also poached, but in water that has honey added to it—and then baked in a wood-fired oven. The honey and fire make a big difference. 

Montreal bagels are smaller, thinner and denser than New York bagels—crisp and crusty on the outside, with a wonderful touch of sweetness. Dare I say the Montreal bagel is better? Well, I certainly loved them. After 35 years of New York bagels, Montreal’s were a treat.

I’m told Montrealers fall into two camps, devoted to one of the two iconic bagel bakeries in town. You’re either a St-Viateur or Fairmount bagel person. I loved the “all-dressed” or tout garni (everything) bagel at St-Viateur. Whatever you choose, expect to eat one or more immediately, fresh from the oven. It’s impossible not to.

But don’t expect someone to slice your bagel and schmear it with cream cheese. Not in Montreal. Unlike in New York, you won’t find cases with 50 spreads, slabs of lox, sandwiches made to order. There’s a fridge with small containers of cream cheese and other items for sale at both St-Viateur and Fairmount, and that’s it. Basically, it’s just BAGELS!

St.-Viateur Bagel, 263 Saint-Viateur West

Fairmount Bagel, 74 Fairmount West

Poutine 

French fries and cheese curds topped with brown gravy. That’s the classic; a quintessentially Quebecois cuisine and pretty much a must when you visit Montreal. La Banquise—by many accounts the best poutine in town—expands the possibilities by adding imaginative, often surprising, toppings to the original. Try La Scooby (ground beef, bacon, onions, fried pickles & Caesar dressing garlic sauce) or La Boogalou (pulled pork, creamy coleslaw & sour cream). La Sud-Ouest (bacon, red onions, guacamole, onion rings & chipotle sauce) or La Mart (hot-dog sausage, bacon & mushrooms). Over 30 poutines available, 24 hours a day.

La Banquise, 994 Rachel Street East

Crepes

Breizh Café serves savory buckwheat crepes (aka galettes) like they make in the Brittany (Breizh) region of France. I had La Complete Champignons et Oignons Caramélisés (swiss cheese, ham, mushrooms, carmelized onions and sunny side up egg). Délicieux! The dessert crepes are made with wheat flour and also excellent. Try the Banane et Chocolat (banana and Belgian dark chocolate)—a classic combination. Nice selection of cider, wine and beer.

3991 Saint-Laurent Blvd.

Breakfast/Brunch

Beautys Luncheonette—Iconic Mile End diner, famous for its Mish-Mash—a hot dog/salami/green pepper/fried onion omelet (served with home fries and bagel). It’s delicious and your arteries will forgive you. Other classics: Beautys Special (cream cheese, smoked salmon, tomato and onion on a bagel), Super Beautys 2 (two eggs, pancakes, bacon and sausages) and Beautys Breakfast Melt (eggs, cheddar cheese, tomato and bacon, ham or salami on grilled challah). Burgers, salads and shakes, too. Since 1942.

93 Mont-Royal Avenue West

Le Vieux Vélo—As classic and comforting as a vieux vélo (an old bicycle), this cozy breakfast/brunch/lunch spot in Petite-Patrie is known for its Eggs Benedict. Along with the classic version, choices include smoked salmon with capers and cream cheese; brie, avocado and bacon (the B.A.B); and grilled vegetables and cheddar cheese with pesto hollandaise.  

The rest of the menu is also excellent, including tofu scramble, pancakes, salads, and sandwiches like my fantastic grilled veggie on sourdough with olive oil, pesto and feta. Vieux Velo is in a great part of Petite-Patrie. Be sure to visit Librairie Résonance—a super-cool music bookstore across the street.

59 Rue Beaubien East. No reservations. Closes at 3 p.m.

September Cafe—Trendy spot with hip young crowd, surfer-inspired aesthetic, great music—and excellent food, coffee and matcha. Crazy-crowded when we went on a cold Sunday morning, but worth the wait for scrumptious, fluffy pancakes, perfect avocado toast (topped with chives, pumpkin seeds and a soft boiled egg) and delicious champignon (mushroom) and burrata toast: a thick slice of sourdough bread smothered in sautéed mushrooms. Talk about comfort food!

BLT on challah toast at Beautys.

The cafe’s back patio means more elbow room in good weather. Open til 3 p.m. daily. Located in Little Burgundy—a short walk to the Lachine Canal and Atwater Market.

2471 Notre-Dame West

Bistro

La Croissanterie Figaro—Lovely sliver of Paris on a quiet neighborhood corner in Outremont. We had a late evening meal here, on the patio filled with flowers and foliage. Magical on a summer’s night. Menu features sandwiches, salads, quiches, pastries… Also flammekueches (flatbread) and feuilletes (puffed pastry). Our nicoise and garden salads were fantastic. (“One of the best salads I’ve had in my life,” says my wife.) Indoors, the decor is art nouveau. Nice spot to start the day with an almond croissant and cafe au lait. 

5200 Hutchison Street

Bakeries/Patisseries/Viennoiserie

Along with wonderful baked goods, each of these places serves coffee and has seating.

Avocado toast at September Cafe.

Kouign-amann slices at Patisserie Au Kouing-Amann.

Patisserie Au Kouing-Amann—This patisserie’s namesake is an exquisite pastry from the Brittany region of France: the kouign-amann—a dense, multi-layered, almost bread pudding-like cake with a caramelized crust. Soft and chewy inside, a perfect crunch on top… It’s decadent, or, as my wife put it: “This is insane. Seriously!”

The kouign-amanns are baked as big, gorgeous disks and served by the slice. I’ve never had anything like it. Trust me, your first kouign-amann will be a memorable experience. The croissants here are magnificent as well (plain, chocolate, almond, and cheese). The moment you walk into this adorable place, the aroma of butter and pastry dough wash over you. Heavenly!

316 Avenue Mont-Royal East Limited seating. Closes at 3 p.m.

Hof Kelsten—One of Montreal’s best bakeries, where I had the best almond croissant of my life. Everything here looks amazing: croissants, challahs, scones, babka… Sandwiches and matzoh ball soup served, too. Large, modern space with big communal table and counters along the floor-to-ceiling windows.

4524 Saint-Laurent Blvd.

Farine & Vanille—Charming Mile End bakery/cafe. We loved the savory tomato tart so much we had to have a second one. Chocolate brioche, raspberry tart, blueberry scone were great as well. Everything is baked in house. I wish I had room for one of the flaky, plump croissants or the gorgeous loaves of bread that were on display.

5000 Park Avenue

Coffee/Cafes

There’s no shortage of fantastic spots for coffee, bread and baked goods in Montreal. Here are a few we liked:

Cafe Saint-Henri—Bright, modern space serving excellent coffee and pastries, across from the main Jean-Talon Market building.

260 North Market Square Additional locations around town

Cafe LaRue & Fils—I cozied up at the Rue Saint-Zotique East location during a snowfall. Great coffee. Several locations. 

919 Saint-Zotique East

Cafe Humble Lion—Across the street from McGill’s main gate. Lots of students, naturally. Nice vibe. The coffee is excellent. Good scones, too.

904 Sherbrooke West

Cafe Olimpico—A completely different scene from the quaint cafes above. A Montreal institution, the Mile End location is large, lively, buzzing with people. Authentic Italian coffeehouse serving first-rate espresso drinks plus Italian treats like cornetti, tiramisu, biscotti and bomboloni.

124 Saint-Viateur West

Sandwiches

Kahwa Cafe—Man, do these folks know how to make a sandwich. Let’s begin with that BREAD! A hunk of dough, seasoned with turmeric and black cumin, placed in the oven, right in front of you, the moment you order, so it’s fresh, hot and toasty when you take your first bite. 

Choose from six sandwich options: Tunisian tuna, chicken panko, lamb kebab, merguez sausage, Italian (tomato, mozzarella, pesto), and grilled vegetables with pesto and feta or goat cheese. Garnishes include tomato, cucumber and mint yogurt. Homemade Kahwa sauce takes it over the top. Very cool, laid back place with urban industrial interior in the Plateau.

331 Avenue Mont-Royal East

Bánh Mì Bánh Yiu—Excellent Mile End Vietnamese banh mi shop. Succinct selection of a half dozen sandwiches, a couple salads and soup. I had the japchae salad (glass noodles, edamame, cilantro, cucumber, carrot, scallion) with braised pork on top. Crazy good. The girls had a banh mi with spicy eggplant and one with roast chicken—also delicious. And the price is right ($9 Canadian)! Cool space with counter seating.

255 Saint-Viateur Street West

Around the World…

Le Super-Qualité serves southern Indian street food with phenomenal flavors and flair in a fantastic little space in Petite-Patrie. From dahi batata puri and masala dosa to wada pav and pav bhaji—and, oh, that fried okra!—you’ll want to try it all. Everything about this place adds up to a memorable dining experience: the inventive dishes (served on metal plates, like in India); creative cocktails (try the Billy Mitchell); and fantastic decor (turquoise walls, neon logo, hanging lamps made from tiffin containers). A far cry from your typical Indian restaurant.

1211 Rue Bélanger   No reservations. Open for lunch Tues.- Friday. Outpost at Le Central food hall.

Resto Los Planes—The place to go for delicious, authentic Salvadoran pupusas: thick corn cakes filled with a combination of meat, veggies, cheese or beans. Los Planes makes them fresh and flavorful and serves them hot off the griddle. I tried one pupusa with pork and one with beans—with a healthy helping of homemade curtido (fermented cabbage slaw) and pickled vegetables. Incredible! The condiments are a must for the full pupusa experience.

Los Planes’ pupusas are filling and inexpensive. The horchata, outstanding. The service, kinda slow, but worth it. The menu includes tacos, enchiladas, tamales and more.

531 Rue Bélanger

Luna—Exceptional Korean cuisine served in a lovely contemporary setting with attention to every detail. Our meal began with mouthwatering dalk-gangjeong (fried chicken with sweet and sour sauce, peanut, and orange peel), saumon Hwe (marinated salmon and pickled white radish with spicy sauce and wasabi), and galbi mandoo (steamed dumplings with marinated beef ribs, pork, tofu, leek, onion, garlic). The main course bulgogi and bibimbap were phenomenal, rich with flavor.

On Friday and Saturday you must order from the prix fixe menu. Other nights, there are à la carte options.

* BYOW (Bring your own wine). NOTE that there is not a good wine store close to Luna. Be sure to pick up your wine before you head over.

917 Rue Rachel East

Osmo x Marusan—Super-cool Japanese curry and sandwich (sando) shop, a short walk from McGill’s campus. The curry pork katsu and vegetarian curry (tofu and cauliflower) platters were outstanding. The tamago sando is a masterwork of soft-boiled eggs and egg salad with black vinegar tsukuri mayo on homemade milk bread. Specialty drinks include an iced hojicha (green tea) latte and the Osmo Fog (iced blue matcha). The semi-subterranean industrial-style space was filled with students and creative types. Great music (DJ certain nights).

51 Sherbrooke Street West

Sammi & Soupe Dumpling—Juicy, delicious soup dumplings (we had classic pork), served steaming hot. Excellent wonton soup. Both perfect on a frigid winter day. Decor is nothing to speak of, but worth a stop if you crave dumplings. We visited the Chinatown location on the Rue de la Gauchetière pedestrian mall, which is lined with Chinese restaurants. A short walk from downtown and Old Montreal. Inexpensive.

68 La Gauchetière Street West Additional locations around town

Pupusas at Los Planes.

A Great Night Out

Gus—Exceptional neighborhood bistro in Rosemont-La Petite-Patrie. The insanely rich and delicious scalloped potatoes alone are worth a visit. And the superb caesar salad (with strips of bacon). AND the hangar steak, and salmon tartare… The menu of culinary classics was posted on a small chalkboard and described in detail tableside by our waiter. (I’m saving the Cote de Boeuf for a special occasion.) Chef David Ferguson adds a subtle Tex Mex twist to some of his dishes and his restaurant gets everything right for a great night out. Awesome ambience, attentive service, killer cocktails, excellent wine list. Cozy, unpretentious, unrushed… Pretty much perfection, IMHO.

38 Beaubien Street East Call for reservations: 514.722.2175

Utterly Unique

Le Sain Bol—Four tables, three main dishes, one man doing it all (cooking, serving guests, clearing tables) in this intimate, awesome, inviting place. Le Sain Bol (The Healthy Bowl) is the realm of chef Frédéric Houtin, who prepares everything to order in his small open kitchen. I had melt-in-your-mouth gravlax served on a bed of gem lettuce with thin apple slices and a mustard/vinaigrette dressing. My wife’s salad featured the fluffiest goat cheese omelette of all time. The day’s third item was salmon. The menu changes regularly and always features fresh, organic, seasonal and local ingredients.

To start our meal, Frédéric served us small cups of delicious carrot soup. For dessert, we shared the only option offered that day: apple cake with a blueberry compote. It was excellent.

Le Sain Bol is the sort of place I dream of discovering when I explore a city.

5095 Rue Fabre, just off Laurier Avenue Hours vary / Closed Wednesday   Cash only

There’s a 7 p.m. Friday night seating where Frédéric serves a four to five course “intuition menu.” I will definitely be trying that sometime! Reservation required for dinner only.

This stretch of Laurier Avenue and it’s cross streets, known as Petit Laurier, is a wonderful area to explore, with lots of great shops. Be sure to visit La Chocolaterie Pastille, a marvelous chocolate shop right across from Le Sain Bol.

Gravlax salad at Le Sain Bol.

Jean-Talon Market—This wonderful market is the largest in Montreal and one of the biggest in North America. It’s filled with vendors selling fresh meat, fish, poultry, eggs, bread, produce and flowers. Plus cheese, spices, maple syrup, prepared foods and more.

Markets and Fine Foods

Visit Jean-Talon to grab everything you need for an awesome picnic or a spread to take to your accommodations. We bought cheese and pâtés from Fromagerie Hamel, a frozen chicken pie (pâté au poulet) from Boucherie Nordest, and veggies for a nice salad. Also salami and bread from nearby shops (Jean-Talon Market is in Little Italy). Voila! Dinner is served!

Atwater Market is housed in an Art Deco building with a dramatic clocktower and offers the same culinary delights as Jean-Talon. In warm months, farmers from across Quebec set up shop at both markets and sell local produce.

Atwater is closer to downtown than Jean-Talon Market. It’s also right next to the Lachine Canal. If you plan to picnic by the water or need a bite for a bike ride, there’s no better place to shop.

Be sure to pop into Les Douceurs du Marché while at Atwater. It’s a sprawling fine food shop packed with specialty and hard to find items, including Quebec ciders and jams. For sensational Singaporean street food, head to Satay Brothers’ Atwater outpost.

Jean-Talon Market, 7070 Henri-Julien Avenue (corner of Henri-Julien and Jean-Talon Street)

Atwater Market, 138 Atwater Avenue (The market is just south of downtown, in the Saint-Henri district, near Little Burgundy and Griffintown.)

Fromagerie Hamel—Easily one of the best cheese shops I have been to, ever. Right across from the main Jean-Talon Market building. The aroma of cheese is intoxicating the moment you step inside. We tried some incredible cheeses from Quebec and France. This impeccable gourmet shop also sells spreads, pates, pestos, oils, vinegars, condiments, fancy beverages, chocolates and more. 

220 Rue Jean-Talon Street East (at Jean-Talon Market) Numerous other locations as well

Vrac & Bocaux is a zero-waste grocery store in Petite-Patrie that sells organic foods in bulk. Grains, nuts, pasta, dried fruit, spices, snacks, oils, vinegars, coffees, teas, honey, flour, baking ingredients, and more. If you’re staying in an Airbnb anywhere nearby and want to cook, this is a great place to buy just what you need, when you need it. Vrac & Bocaux also sells fresh produce, tofu, tempeh, cheese, prepared foods, and body care and household cleaning products. The world needs more zero-waste shops like this epicerie! 

6698 Avenue Christophe-Colomb

Chocolates

Very large lemons at Jean-Talon Market.

The sweet storefront of La Chocolaterie Pastille, a true neighborhood treat.

La Chocolaterie Pastille—The chocolate bonbons here are extraordinary: domes of chocolate filled with tantalizing flavors like maple butter, cardamom, lavender, dulce, earl gray, lime praline, caramel banana and tonka bean—each piece a tiny work of art, with beautiful colors and patterns on its glimmering surface.

Owner Edith Bédard and her chocolatiers create their artisanal chocolates in a small open kitchen in this charming shop. Besides bonbons you’ll find molded chocolate figures and a variety of chocolate bars. I can vouch for the awesome praline, rice crispy, and raspberry bars. The chocolate brownie looks dense and decadent. Next time!

5090 Rue Fabre (just off Laurier Avenue on a wonderful stretch of the Plateau known as Petit Laurier)

SIGHTS

Mind-boggling modern architecture. A magnificent church. Imposing Leonard Cohen murals. Beautiful college campus. Just for starters…

Nearly 60 years later, Habitat 67 still astonishes. 

Habitat 67—Had to see it. Even in a snowstorm, late one afternoon. We drove to this architectural icon, on a peninsula in the St. Lawrence River, for a close look. I stood and marveled at this mind-boggling building, wondering how on earth did architect Moshe Sadie do that! Habitat 67 is a revolutionary apartment complex made of stacked, pre-fab, concrete modules; a brutalist landmark, built for Montreal’s 1967 world’s fair, Expo 67. Our visit was particularly eerie and awesome in the snow, as the rapids of the frigid St. Lawrence roared behind us. There is nothing on earth like this building. See it up close, but also get a wider view from the Old Port, across the river. Guided tours are offered periodically. Book in advance. 

Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours Chapel—In Montreal’s oldest chapel, known as the Sailors’ Church, votive lamps shaped as model ships hang from the sanctuary ceiling. Given its proximity to Montreal’s port, sailors historically stopped here to pray before they set out to sea and upon their return. Starting in the 19th century, mariners thankful for safe passage gave these miniature wooden ships as offerings and today nine of them sail above the aisles, an absolute delight to see. 

Model ship votives hang from the ceiling at Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours Chapel.

Bon-Secours also houses the remains of Saint Marguerite Bourgeoys (1620–1700) and has a gorgeous exterior including a statue of the Virgin Mary facing the harbor, blessing travelers with open arms. 

Even if you’ve seen many—or too many—churches in your day, Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours is special and worth a visit. I found the chapel a particularly intimate and calming space. Take your time to walk around and look closely at each of the model ships. And climb the bell tower for a great view.

For an interesting bit of sightseeing, visit Bon-Secours—built in 1771—then take a short walk down the waterfront for a view of Habitat 67—built 200 years later—across the river. Pretty amazing juxtaposition!

400 Saint-Paul Street East Old Montreal Champ-de-Mars metro stop

Leonard Cohen murals—Two giant murals of Montreal’s secular saint. One towers 22 stories high and covers the side of an apartment building downtown. The other, nine stories, is just off trendy St.-Laurent Blvd. in the Plateau Mont-Royal district where Cohen once lived. If you’re out and about exploring, you’ll probably come upon both of these. It’s fun to turn a corner and suddenly see Cohen, in his trademark fedora, gazing out upon his city. 

1420 Crescent Street, Downtown Montreal

Corner of Saint-Dominique and Napoléon Streets, off Saint-Laurent Blvd., Plateau Mont-Royal neighborhood

McGill University—The main campus is situated between the greenery of Mount Royal and the steel and glass of downtown Montreal. Stroll about and take in the historic buildings and campus life as you explore the city. McGill holds an important place in Montreal’s history and identity and is well worth a visit.

845 Sherbrooke Street West

Mount Royal—What a treasure, this magnificent green “mountain” right in the middle of Montreal. Come here to jog, stroll, snowshoe, ski, skate, picnic, enjoy nature, catch a concert… Visit the summit for a spectacular view of downtown and beyond from the Belvédère Kondiaronk lookout. You can walk or drive to the top; the parking lot is a quick, easy walk to the viewpoint.

Be sure to go inside the Mount Royal Chalet when you’re at the summit. It’s an impressive, cavernous space with paintings depicting Montreal history and rafters decorated with carved wooden squirrels. On Sundays from May through September join the Tam-Tams at the base of Mount Royal for drumming and dancing.

Leonard Cohen towers over downtown Montreal.

SHOP

Every time I’m in Montreal I’m amazed by all the wonderful shops I see. Block after block in the Plateau, sprinkled across La Petite-Patrie, popping up in Griffintown and Little Burgundy… So many small, independently-owned boutiques, design stores, galleries, vintage clothing shops, unique only-in-Montreal gems. Below is just a taste of the great shopping we’ve discovered as we explore this great city.

Books on music at Librairie Résonance. Handmade Japanese paper at Au Papier Japonais.

Librairie Résonance—Incredibly cool bookstore dedicated to music across genres. Artist and band biographies, photo books, essays… books on music history, pop culture, record collecting. Rare, unusual finds. Music enthusiasts—you’ll love this very special shop. Owner Jean Lavigne’s love and knowledge of music and passion for what he does is evident on every shelf.

40 Beaubien Street East

Au Papier Japonais—Beautiful shop in Mile End that sells an astounding selection of traditional handmade Japanese paper, known as washi. From huge sheets to small scraps, a tantalizing assortment of patterns and prints. For crafts, origami, home projects… I purchased a piece to frame and hang on the wall. Super-friendly staff welcomes visitors to browse.

24 Fairmount Avenue West

tresnormale—This Mile End boutique sells distinctive screen-printed t-shirts by a local artist. Wonderful graphics of Montreal landmarks like the Biosphere and Habitat 67 to boulevards, building facades—and lots of bicycles. Unique, moody, mostly monochromatic images, occasionally with the perfectly placed pop of color. (Tote bags available, too.) Tresnormale is one of my favorite finds; I intend to get another t-shirt next time. 

207 Fairmount Avenue West

Habitat 67 on my tresnormale t-shirt.

Papeterie Nota Bene—Extensive selection of paper products, writing instruments, office supplies—from budget to expensive stuff kept behind glass. Notebooks, folders, journals, sketchbooks, day planners, organizers, pens, you name it.

3416 Park Avenue Walking distance to McGill University campus

A peek inside PONY.

PONY—Meet Count Vulva, Miss Understood, Morning Wood, Anxiyeti, Balonie and the gang of stuffed therapeutic creatures from the fertile imagination of Montreal artist Pony at her one-of-a-kind shop on Rue St-Hubert. PONY is filled with unusual, inspired creations borne of the artist’s wonderful wit and design sense including clothes, caps, mugs, posters, slippers, bags and backpacks.

The stuffies are the standouts, however. Each one comes with a backstory and a mission to comfort its owner and address a specific emotional need. Anxiyeti is a companion to counter winter loneliness, for instance. Kinzu helps individuals embrace grief as part of the incredible adventure that is their unique existence. This shop is filled with unique, fun, eccentric stuff. (Note to self: Get Existential Crisis Club t-shirt next visit.)

6534 Rue St-Hubert

Empire Exchange (EE) Vintage Clothing—My teen daughter—the ultimate thrifter—was thrilled with the purchase she made at Empire Exchange. Great selection of well-curated used clothing. Also, boutique of new items from candles and incense to eyewear and other accessories. There are a number of vintage clothing shops along this stretch of St.-Laurent Blvd. and a couple more nearby on St.-Viateur Street.

5225 Saint-Laurent Blvd.

Buk & Nola—Boutique filled with decorative objects, tableware, kitchen and culinary implements, jewelry and fashion accessories, stationery, candles, soaps and apothecary items, great stuff for kids, and more. Curated selection of beautiful but down-to-earth objects. Really good price point for such special finds. 

1593 Laurier Avenue East Buk & Nola is located in the wonderful little neighborhood of Petit Laurier. Grab lunch at nearby Le Sain Bol and chocolates at La Chocolaterie Pastille.

MUST DO

Bota Bota—Floating spa on the St. Lawrence River. We did the three hour water circuit on a brisk February morning and it was magical. Dip in an icy plunge pool, move to hot tubs on various decks, meditate in a sauna, take another hot soak, sweat it out in a steam room, relax in a hammock in one of the many lounges, head back to a sauna… Move about as you’d like, to your own rhythm, in this beautiful, transporting, tranquil environment. After three hours of this, I was in a state of bliss.

No phones on deck. Silence is expected, except in one designated area where quiet conversation is permitted. The saunas have magnificent views of the water and port. I don’t know if there’s anywhere quite like this in the world, but if so, it can’t be better than Bota Bota. Massage and other spa services available. Book in advance.

Old-Port of Montreal Corner of De la Commune and McGill