A Rambling Ride to Remember
The annual Roe Jan Ramble traverses country roads across bucolic Columbia County to raise funds for the Harlem Valley Rail Trail.
“I'm a-talkin' 'bout the Roe Jan Ramble
And everybody got to go”
- With apologies to The Rolling Stones
By Adam Rabiner
Columbia County, New York State, USA
In August 2022, I bought a lightweight carbon bicycle with an enormous rear chainring to power myself up the steep hills of southern Columbia County in Upstate New York. During my purchase, the salesman at Steiner’s Sports informed me that the upcoming Roe Jan Ramble the following month would be the perfect venue to break in my new bike.
I learned from the Ramble website that it’s an annual community bike ride, run by volunteers. Registration is free, but donations are encouraged “to support and extend the Harlem Valley Rail Trail (HVRT) for bikers, joggers, walkers, and everyone.”
I knew the 26-mile HVRT very well. It’s where I took my new bike for its inaugural ride. The trail connects the small Columbia and Dutchess County towns of Hillsdale in the north, Millerton in the middle, and Wassaic in the south. I once came across a giant turtle happily claiming the middle of the path for itself. Others have spotted ducks, beavers, deer, foxes, and even bears.
I was happy to support this great cause. Better yet, the Roe Jan Ramble was not a timed race. There were several distance options, ranging from the 10-mile “family fun” route to a challenging 100-mile trek for serious bikers (5,483 foot elevation gain, +9.1% maximum grade).
Though I was unable to participate in 2022, in 2023 my wife, teenage daughter, and I signed up for the 18-mile route—the second easiest—described as “something a bit more for the occasional rider.” We also invited two friends from Brooklyn and their daughter. That Saturday in September last year was cold, rainy, and wet and I was severely underdressed. But the ride was beautiful and the poor weather did not dampen my enthusiasm.
This year, I upped the distance to 25 miles and invited two couples to join my wife and me—plus, my sister-in-law and her boyfriend wanted in on the action. I had told everyone that the 25-miler was easy with only one small hill, thinking of the 18-miler from the year before. Unfortunately, though only seven miles longer, there were at least four big ascents, one of which was quite long and steep. Some of my companions would later amicably point out my misrepresentation.
A turtle makes its way along the rail trail.
Adam on the road… rambling right along! (Photo by Dina Rabiner)
This year’s Ramble fell on a fine September day with perfect riding weather in the low seventies. As I rode along, I thought about what the outing meant to me. On a very basic level the Ramble was a great excuse to pump up my tires and hit the country hills and lanes—almost traffic-free asphalt roads lined with animal crossing signs (cows, horses, chickens). I pedaled past barns, horse farms, silos, cornfields, and other halcyon signatures of rural life. I had the best of both worlds, getting my heart rate up with exercise while simultaneously being calmed by beautiful and soothing scenery.
The Ramble route is lined with rolling hills and farmland.
The Ramble gets its name from the Scandinavian tenant farmer Roeliff Jansen who immigrated to the area in the early 1600s and settled near the town of Hillsdale. I’ve known this place, nestled between the Taconic Mountains and the Hudson River, famous for its idyllic views of farms and mountains, for at least twenty years—across countless visits with family and friends.
The towns that comprise the Roe Jan area—Ancram, Copake, Hillsdale, Gallatin, and Livingston—are tiny. You might drive past one that consists simply of a town hall or church without realizing it. The bigger ones may boast a restaurant, diner, or a general store—more likely now to carry gifts, antiques, or gourmet food items catering to second-home owners than the basic groceries, fishing tackle, and other essentials of bygone days.
Yet as quaint and cute as these towns are, Roe Jan’s true and abiding character is deep farm country. The area has retained much of the rural charm that Roeliff Jansen would be familiar with. To this day, Hillsdale remains small, with a population around 1,800. You won’t travel long down any country road without eventually coming across a silo, a field speckled with square haystacks, a traditional farmhouse with red clapboard siding.
Farm stands showcase locally-grown fruits, handmade jams and jellies, newly harvested vegetables, and freshly laid eggs. Some farmers sell pasture-raised pork, lamb, chicken, and beef, stored in a freezer in their house, directly to consumers. A few establishments specialize in flowers. One is locally known for its maple syrup. The region is also steeped in craft beer breweries and distilleries. None of these are large-scale and industrial. Rather, many small, rustic businesses operate out of traditional country farmhouses—the kind where Charlotte would happily find a cozy corner to spin her web.
Scenes from the road: a beautiful and varied landscape—as seen by bicycle.
This landscape is best observed at a leisurely pace. Bikes go slower than cars. Astride them, you are attentive but more exposed, pushing against or being assisted by the wind, with the sun and other elements thrown in the mix, using your body as a power source. Moving under these circumstances is perfect for reflection, communion, and lived experience.
On this ride, I thought about the scenery and the peace it brought me, a city dweller on most days, living in turbulent times. I also thought about how the Ramble was becoming a tradition that I could share with extended family and friends—from six of us on that initial cold and drizzly Saturday afternoon a year ago, to eight of us cycling this past September.
Riders rest and refuel at a Ramble rest stop, a few miles from the finish line.
Yet even as I shared this experience, for much of the Ramble I found myself riding alone, which suited me just fine. Biking can be social, but at the end of the day it is a solo sport. I was content to be with my group at the starting and ending lines. In between, we had occasions to meet up. Near the finish, several of us reunited at a rest stop where we refueled on packaged peanuts, Fig Newtons, Gatorade—and the classic American sandwich, peanut butter and jelly on white bread. My friend who emigrated from Ukraine as a young man tried one for the very first time. He said it was the best sandwich he had ever had. Two hours of vigorous biking on an empty stomach probably factored into his pronouncement.
Sharing the tranquility and magnificence of this unique part of New York with friends, especially as experienced through the Ramble, is very special. And what more perfectly named place to gather after this challenging and fun ride than the Roe Jan Brewing Company, where we raised our mugs of chilled home brew to cheer our accomplishment. I invite readers to join me next year for Roe Jan Ramble 2025. See you then.
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When You Visit…
Columbia County is filled with wonderful, independent shops and restaurants and picture-perfect farms and produce markets. Here are some of Adam’s favorites.
Deli/Retail Store
Ancram Little Store—Open for breakfast and lunch, they make a delicious ham, egg, and cheese breakfast sandwich. (1291 County Road 7, Ancram, NY)
Specialty Food Stores
Copake General Store—Full-service upscale grocery serving breakfast, soups, sandwiches, and baked goods. (171 County Route 7A, Copake, NY)
Cook and Larder—Located next to the Hillsdale General Store, gourmets and gourmands must stop at this high-end food store. (2642 Route 23, Hillsdale, NY)
The Farmer’s Wife—A great spot for breakfast or lunch made from farm-fresh, locally-sourced ingredients. The Farmer’s Wife serves up hearty gourmet country fare—including premade meals and items to go. (3 County Route 8, Ancramdale, NY)
Random Harvest—This is one of our favorite places for fresh fruits, vegetables, local meats, fresh bread, and other Hudson Valley food specialties. A veritable Taste of New York on Route 23. (1785 Route 23, Craryville, NY)
Restaurants
Dad’s Copake Diner—Classic American comfort food at a good price. (178 County Route 7A, Copake, NY)
The Greens at Copake Country Club—One of my favorites. Located on a beautiful golf course, the food here is consistently good. (44 Golf Course Road, Craryville, NY)
Feast and Floret—A beautifully decorated, floral-themed restaurant in Hudson serving high-end food. A lovely garden-like place to enjoy a fine meal. (13 South 3rd Street, Hudson, NY)
Wm. Farmer and Sons—Perfect for a special meal. Known for its fine craft cocktails, hipster bartenders, and quality food. (20 South Front Street, Hudson, NY)
Via Cassia—A relative newcomer to Hudson, I particularly love the yummy Black Tuscon Kale Salad and homemade pastas. (214 Warren Street, Hudson, NY)
Cayote Flaco—Authentic Mexican food, just outside of Hudson. A great choice for casual dining. (6032 Route 9H, Hudson NY)
Hillsdale House—A solid choice for pizza, burgers, pasta, and more. (1 Anthony Street, Hillsdale NY)
Brewpubs/Winery
Roe Jan Brewing Co.—Good variety of beers and ciders. Live music and entertainment outside in the summer. (32 Anthony Street, Hillsdale NY)
Upper Depot Brewing Co.—My favorite brewpub in Hudson is on the site of an old railroad station. Both indoor and outdoor seating is available. (708 State Street, Hudson, NY)
Hudson Brewing Company—Located a short walk from the train station, this tucked-away brewery is perfect if you enjoy locally-made beer. Make it part of your Hudson Valley brewery and distillery tour. (99 South 3rd Street, Hudson, NY)
Whitecliff Vinyard—I am a member of their wine club. Stop in and enjoy a tasting of your favorite reds and whites in a pretty setting just off the Rip Van Winkle Bridge. (4150 Route 23, Hudson, NY)
Local Produce / Farms
There’s no shortage of places to pull over and enjoy the region’s bounty—including two 100-year-old farms that are still going strong outside Hudson, NY.
Green Acres Farm and Bakery—I especially love Green Acres' apple cider donuts in the fall. (226 Route 82, Hudson, NY)
Meisner’s Heritage Farm—A wonderful selection of fresh meats, produce, and vegetables. Down the road, the owner's brother also has a farm stand. (3771 US Route 9, Hudson, NY)
Copake Hillsdale Farmer’s Market—If you are in town on a Saturday during market season, you must stop by for the amazing variety of local products. (9140 State Route 22, Hillsdale, NY)
Turner Farms Maple Syrup—Grab a pint, quart, or gallon of sweet and reasonably priced maple syrup. (9 Phillips Road, Egremont, MA)
Honey Dog Farm Stand—Do not drive past this farm stand! Self-service on an honor system. Very reasonable prices. If your timing is right, you can pick up a bunch of beautiful sunflowers. (284 Rodman Road, Hillsdale, NY)
Shops
Hillsdale General Store—Curated home goods, gifts, and antiques. (2642 Route 23, Hillsdale, NY)
Steiner’s Sports—Bike and ski specialists located in Hudson and Valatie. (301 Warren Street, Hudson, NY and 3455 Route 9, Valatie, NY)
Bash Bish Bicycle—Rent a bike at this small shop at the start of the Harlem Valley Rail Trail and enjoy a wonderful, scenic ride. (247 NY-344, Copake Falls, NY)
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Adam Rabiner is a technical writer for the New York City Department of Finance. Since 2009 he has written over one hundred reviews about food-related films for the Park Slope Food Coop's Linewaiters' Gazette as part of the Plow to Plate Film Series. He has also written community-oriented blog posts for Patch.com and for a time was a restaurant reviewer for Bklyner.com and its affiliated sites.
Adam lives in Brooklyn with his wife Dina and daughter Ana. His son Elan is a college sophomore. He is an avid traveler and since 2018 he and Dina have made a point of celebrating their birthdays, which are about a week apart, with a trip. Destinations have included Copenhagen, Portugal, Italy, Prague, Vienna, France, and Germany’s Romantic Road.
* All photographs by Adam Rabiner unless otherwise indicated
Published November 20, 2024
